Lunch begins, as it always began, with each of the gents throwing dice for his drink tab with Toni Staiano, the bartender at Le Central. PERRY'S DOWNTOWN & PERRY'S UNION STREET -- 185 Sutter Street/1944 Union Street, S.F., (415) 989-6895/(415) 922-9022: Herb Caen Caesar Salad, $2.50; Caen martini, $2; meatloaf and mashed potatoes, $10.50. "I'd get blamed," says Bashford, whose store is practically around the corner on Sutter Street. Archive. Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. For the professional ice hockey player, see, View a 1997 film about Herb Caen's life made by. They'd come up with a story. Mr. Caen says that "people come from miles around," field-trip style, to see the only remaining typewriter in the Chronicle building. Did Julia Child really dine at Tu Lan? . "You got your Christmas shopping done early," says Bashford. Contactless delivery and your first delivery or pickup order is free! ("the damndest saddest, most wonderful funeral anyone ever had, but the only man who could properly describe it isn't here," said Enrico Banducci)[12]:20 I read this just hours before recording a podcast with new Chronicle restaurant critic Soleil Ho, whose approach is to infuse discussion of race and culture and economic realities into her reviews. "Why don't you retire?" Caen, Menus du Vaugueux / Entre - Plat ou Plat Dessert 22, .css-m1nlp2{text-transform:uppercase;white-space:nowrap;font-weight:300;padding:0.25rem 0.5rem;font-size:0.8125rem;border-radius:0.25rem;color:hsl(218, 9%, 17%);background-color:hsl(52, 100%, 50%);font-weight:400;width:m;height:m;display:inline-block;}YUMS x2 PAY Japanese, 33 Rue Saint-Sauveur, The legend has been repeated in the newsroom, and the rest of the city, for decades. PEER INN RESTAURANT -- Pier 33, S.F., (415) 788-1411: Bowl of mussels, shot of whiskey and a glass of beer, $3.95. ENRICO'S -- 504 Broadway, S.F., (415) 982- 6223: Vitamin V Stoli martinis on the rocks in a wine glass ($3.75); live music by Big Money Jazz Band, starring Mal Sharpe. Mr. Caen's version of the Winchell three-dot has its own conventions. "He gave us a heartbeat for the city. 2. Heres when rain, snow will return. 60 restaurants. SFGate.com. Some of the more popular restaurants in Caen according to TheFork users include: Some of the more popular italian restaurants in Caen according to TheFork users include, Some of the more popular french restaurants in Caen according to TheFork users include. . SAM'S GRILL -- 374 Bush Street, S.F., (415) 421-0594: Vitamin V martini ($1); meat- loaf and mashed potatoes ($7.50). He pokes merciless fun at any place that isn't San Francisco, like Oakland ("The Bay Bridge has to end somewhere"), Berkeley (he coined the now ubiquitous "Beserkeley"), Marin County (home of his patented only-in-Marin stories about precious people and their precious lives) and even distant Chico (the Velveeta capital of foodaholic California). CHALKERS BILLIARD CLUB -- Spear and Mission, One Rincon Center, S.F., (415) 512- 0450: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, $5.95; Gordon's vodka martini special, $2.50 all day. She is an avid knitter, a terrible accordion player, a sporadic tweeter and a pretty good speller. She contented herself with spring rolls, pork shish kebabs with rice noodles, lemon beef salad, fried fish and Tsingtao beer.. Talk turns to the Oscars, and particularly, in this impeccably attired crew -- in Caen's words, "clotheshorse Willie Brown," "the elegant Harry de Wildt," "expensive haberdasher Wilkes Bashford," and "arbiter of yesterdays' fashion Matthew Kelly" -- what was worn. Which is how I met Julia. The men get discussed before the ladies. FAIRMONT HOTEL -- 950 Mason Street, S.F., (415) 772-5000: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes in the Crown Room on the buffet; giant $5 Vitamin V martinis in the New Orleans Room and martini specials at the Masons Bar; three-course meal on the Table d'Hote menu, featuring meat loaf, mashed potatoes and a martini $19.97 in Masons Restaurant. "Accuracy was the most important thing," says Brown. [12]:94. Someone would make some racial comment, and he would say, 'Lock your feet around the bar rail, so if they hit you, you won't go down.' But Sixth Street has another side, one I felt sure Julia Child and her former diplomat husband Paul Child would appreciate. Readers who turned to Herb on Feb. 14, 1966, learned that Willie Mays' home was on the market for $110,000. ", "We are all a certain type of flotsam," says de Wildt, "and we all float up at the same time. Then there is a leisurely lunch, usually at the sort of restaurant that thrives on a celebrity clientele and takes its booze at least as seriously as its food. Caen, 18 Rue Porte au Berger, The rest of Woods review was filled with lovely details, proving that the writers instincts about the Tu Lan/Julia Child kizmet were correct. What are the best restaurants in Caen that deliver? One of the largest movie theaters in SF to close permanently, 'Zero visibility' conditions: All roads to Tahoe are closed, Report: Matthew McConaughey has a massive Salesforce paycheck, 'Really cool sight': Rare waterspout forms in Northern California, Avalanche slams into Tahoe apartment building amid blizzard, Plan to bring bullet train from LA to Vegas is underway, What it looks like inside Coit Towers former apartment, A different horse': Bay Area will likely continue to see rain, Grapevine closed indefinitely due to heavy snow and ice, Popular yet divisive fast food chain coming to this Bay Area town, Hundreds of thousands of workers have abandoned downtown SF, Tahoe's snowfall totals are on track to break records, If travel planning gives you a headache, try these apps. Signed HC at the best online prices at eBay! A Google search in 2019 reveals no backstory, just one guide book-y write up after another repeating Tu Lan, which was once recommended by Julia Child . Playwright and culture writer Michon Boston questioned the myth in a 2012 blog post, and checked Julia Childs papers at the Schlesinger Library in Massachusettes. [31] 228. For an eternity, the victim twitched in spasm after spasm, and one by one the witnesses began fainting around me. [19] Hotels with Complimentary Breakfast in Caen, European Restaurants for Special Occasions in Caen, French Restaurants for Large Groups in Caen, Restaurants near Hotel La Fontaine Caen Centre, Restaurants near Best Western Royal Hotel Caen Centre, Restaurants near Best Western Plus Hotel Moderne, Restaurants near Ibis Styles Caen Centre Gare, Restaurants near Novotel Caen Cote de Nacre, Restaurants near Campanile Caen Centre Gare, Restaurants near Office De Tourisme De Caen. I can get you a good table in a restaurant -- that's about the height of my powers. It will be on page 1 of The San Francisco Chronicle, if he has his way, smack in the middle of the page and bordered in black. Paul Child really liked the food, but in Woods article, Childs thoughts about the meal remain vague throughout. "All the other politicians were so envious of me. 14000, "He would call Willie on it," says Bashford. was followed by a candlelight procession[38] to Aquatic Park, where his will had provided for a fireworks displayclimaxed by a pyrotechnic image of the manual typewriter he had long called his "Loyal Royal". YANK SING -- 427 Battery Street, S.F., (415) 781-1111: Complimentary siu mye, one of Mr. Caen's favorite dim sum items. .css-dni6nt path:nth-child(1),.css-dni6nt path:nth-child(2){fill:hsl(104, 38%, 42%);}.css-dni6nt path:nth-child(3),.css-dni6nt path:nth-child(4){fill:hsl(0, 0%, 0%);}.css-l7ijkl{clip:rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px)!important;overflow:hidden!important;position:absolute!important;white-space:nowrap!important;height:1px!important;width:1px!important;padding:0!important;border:0!important;contain:paint!important;}TheFork, a Trip advisor company, .css-1ddcsh7{font-size:0.8125rem;font-weight:400;font-family:RalewayX,arial,sans-serif;font-style:normal;line-height:1.3846153846153846;text-transform:uppercase;text-transform:uppercase;}French, 14 Rue Porte au Berger, (Thrice divorced, with a son, he shares his home with a female companion.) 14000, JUDY'S CAFE -- 2268 Chestnut at Scott, S.F., (415) 922-4588: Meat loaf and potatoes ($4.95). SEAL'S COVE -- Pier 33, S.F., (415) 788-4343: Herb Burger, $5; half-price martinis, $2. Jim Wood had become as impressive a figure as Julia Child. "When he'd go on holiday," says Kelly, "he was always afraid somebody would take his job." ", Did he ever make a mistake? Some of the most popular restaurants in Caen that deliver are: Some of the most popular restaurants in Caen that provide takeout are: Some of the best restaurants in Caen for families with children include: Some of the most popular restaurants in Caen for cheap eats include: I thought I knew everything about steak, You cannot go wrong chez Monsieur Louis, Inventive, delicious, moderately priced. [6], The Chronicle projected a one-fifth decline in subscriptionssurveys had shown that Caen was better-read than the front page. (Menu items then included an order of . [6] His many recurring if irregular features included "Namephreaks"people with names (aptronyms) peculiarly appropriate or inappropriate to their vocations or avocations, such as "You don't think I'm washed up, do you?" pizza favorite shuts down after 13 years, plus more closings, Your Privacy Choices (Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads). Meanwhile, "Mike Connolly is ready to concede that the situation in Vietnam is complex: 'Even my cab driver can't come up with a solution. "Every week, he'd say we're never coming back here again," says Brown. SCOTT'S SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR -- 2400 Lombard Street, S.F., (415) 563-8988: Herb's Heavenly Pasta, tagliarini with clams ($5.50); Vitamin V martinis, $1. 1 on his life's list of priorities. For lunch, meatloaf and potatoes ($10). ; live music performed by Marilyn Larson until 10 p.m., including Ella Fitzgerald standards and songs from the Big Band era. ( SF CHRONICLE PHOTO BY SCOTT SOMMERDORF ), One of the largest movie theaters in SF to close permanently, 'Zero visibility' conditions: All roads to Tahoe are closed, Report: Matthew McConaughey has a massive Salesforce paycheck, 'Really cool sight': Rare waterspout forms in Northern California, Avalanche slams into Tahoe apartment building amid blizzard, Plan to bring bullet train from LA to Vegas is underway, What it looks like inside Coit Towers former apartment, Grapevine closed indefinitely due to heavy snow and ice, A different horse': Bay Area will likely continue to see rain, Popular yet divisive fast food chain coming to this Bay Area town, Hundreds of thousands of workers have abandoned downtown SF, Tahoe's snowfall totals are on track to break records, Grapevine closed indefinitely due to snow and ice, authorities say, New report shows thousands of workers have left downtown San Francisco. When the presentation is complete, the two hug and Brown comes back inside. Her husband Paul took seconds, then thirds on the salad and the fish, so I think he really liked what he had., On the way out, as Child headed to her limousine, a homeless man approached her, bowed deeply, and offered the chefs signature line: Bon Appetit!. French. Child is moving back to her native California in November and is leaving her Cambridge, Mass. Caen, Centre Commercial les Rives de l'Orne - Quai Hamelin, After sharing these finds on social media last week, I was engaged by Woods widow, the San Francisco journalist Carol Pogash, who saw the discussion on Twitter. In 1993, he told an interviewer that he declined to retire because "my name wouldn't be in the paper and I wouldn't know if I was dead or alive," adding that his obituary would be his last column: "It will trail off at the end, where I fall face down on the old Royal with my nose on the 'I' key. [9] When that column was discontinued in 1938, Caen proposed a daily column on the city itself; "It's News to Me" first appeared July 5. One more surprise awaited. Mr. Caen adjusts his brown felt fedora, bids a hearty farewell to the few people still at the bar and heads to the door and the bright afternoon sunshine. Herb Caen, April 2, 1958. [15] He popularized obscureoften playfulterms such as Frisbeetarianism,[16] and ribbed nearby Berkeley as Berserkeley for its often-radical politics. ROSMARINO RESTAURANT -- 3665 Sacramento Street, S.F. He bought his first hat before leaving Sacramento and rode the ferry toward San Francisco. Caen never mentioned the incident in his column. 5. "I don't want to find out," he says glumly. MICHELIN French. As if reminded of frailty by the turn of conversation, Bashford tells the others that a once-famous stalwart of Caen's column had died during the weekend. "It's like I let them down. SOME WOE around Sam Wo, the skinny three-story restaurant on Washington near Grant. My Dad and I went there for dinner because we read about it in Caen's column and the place was great. The chef remembered Wood. Caen, 23 Boulevard Georges Pompidou, Joeshe fakes it with Ken.'" ", "He had more integrity than any journalist I've even known," says Brown. The first known Chinese restaurant in America, Canton Restaurant, opened in San Francisco in 1849. The very idea seems to deflate him. Lunch, $15; dinner, $19.38. Then it's back to the office to answer the mail, with every letter, Mr. Caen said, signed by him lest it not match an earlier correspondence that hangs, yellowed, on somebody's refrigerator door. ", When it's time to sit, the mayor occupies the spot nearest the window on the banquet side, which is marked by a plaque honoring Caen. Lunch begins, as it always began, with each of the gents throwing dice for his drink tab with Toni Staiano, the bartender at Le Central. is a question Mr. Caen (pronounced cane) is used to hearing, and he's got the answer down pat. Chalupa in paradise: Does Pacifica have the worlds best Taco Bell? "You could never be weak.". "[8], In 1936, Caen began writing a radio programming column for the San Francisco Chronicle. [23]. There are no images in The Chronicle archive. I decided after finding Woods write-up of the Tu Lan visit to go back and read his full Chronicle obituary, more to honor the man than continue the sleuthing. The Chronicle archive is filled with wonderful surprises, but rarely is a question so satisfyingly answered. VIVANDE RISTORANTE -- 670 Golden Gate Avenue, S.F., (415) 673-9245: Pasta carbonara for lunch and dinner ($11.50); Vitamin V martinis, $3. Our S.F. The natives once delighted in these columns because they confirmed their sense of blessedness, he says. . He pays his own way everywhere, he insists, and jostles for a modest lunch check at Moose's to prove the point. Drink with moderation. [12]:16-17. (415) 986-3222: Lunch specials of pot roast and mashed potatoes ($2.95); $1.50 martinis. Average price 29-50% sur la carte - TheFork Festival. 14000, Alex's favorite is the Staten Island. ANTICA TRATTORIA -- 2400 Polk Street, S.F., (415) 928-5797: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes as a complimentary side dish to the main course. HOTEL GRIFFON/ROTI RESTAURANT -- 155 Steuart Street, S.F., (415) 495-6500: Herb Caen Memorial Cocktail Hour from 6 to 9 p.m. Stoli martini's Herb's Way $3. It was more important to have a favorable mention from Herb than an editorial endorsement." MOOSE'S -- 1652 Stockton Street, S.F., (415) 954-0744: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, $1.50; Mini Mooseburgers, 95 cents; Skyy vodka martinis 75 cents. Herbert Eugene Caen (/ken/; April 3, 1916 February 1, 1997) was a San Francisco humorist and journalist whose daily column of local goings-on and insider gossip, social and political happenings, and offbeat puns and anecdotes"A continuous love letter to San Francisco"[1]appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle for almost sixty years (excepting a relatively brief defection to The San Francisco Examiner) and made him a household name throughout the San Francisco Bay Area. He was fun and he was good at what he did.). "You gotta outlove them. Dated Nov. 11, 1971. "No other newspaper columnist ever has been so long synonymous with a specific place Part of his appeal seemed to lie in the endless bonhomie he projected," said his New York Times obituary, comparing him to Walter Winchell "but with the malice shorn off." Photos by Momo Chang. Caen, 5 Place Saint-Sauveur, A search in The Chronicles digital archive quickly revealed that: 1. Caen, .css-1qf8kli{text-transform:uppercase;white-space:nowrap;font-weight:300;padding:0.25rem 0.5rem;font-size:0.8125rem;border-radius:0.25rem;color:hsl(0, 0%, 100%);background-color:hsl(164, 25%, 21%);font-weight:400;width:m;height:m;display:inline-block;}INSIDER.css-rim4wq{margin-left:0.25rem;} Mexican, 43 Rue Saint-Sauveur, [6] His funeralheld at Grace Cathedral despite his Jewish heritage[37] L'OLIVIER -- 465 Davis Street, S.F., (415) 981-7824: The vodka martini-Meatloaf lunch special and appetizer, $13.50. Sidney Poitier wore the best-tailored traditional outfit, opines Brown, but Samuel Jackson was best-dressed overall. ", He made fun of people's pretentions; he made fun of their hairdos. CAFE PESCATORE -- 2455 Mason Street, S.F., (415) 561-1111: Herbed Crab Cakes a la Caen, $6.95; Sackamenna Sling (Stoli martini with three dots of vermouth), $5.50. Works. But hell, a lot of columnists find a favorite candidate and plug them without being called a . Herb Caen is considering his own obituary. This 1967 file photo shows Julia Child explaining "with a little practice" you can do everything with the flare of a gourmet. "Herb offset the unfairness of the rest of the paper," he says. The room has emptied now, the lunch crowd mostly gone and the cocktail crew about an hour away. 14000, "If you discussed an item with him, you couldn't mislead him. This page was last edited on 22 December 2022, at 03:21. pizza favorite shuts down after 13 years, plus more Bay Area 2022 tax returns: IRS further extends filing deadline for most Californians. I think it was the late 80s, maybe even mid-80s. "If he had decided to run for mayor, I would have supported him and asked to be police chief. A Contre Sens 819 reviews Open Now French, European $$$$ Menu "Friendly, relaxed and a great meal" "Excellent" 2022 3. . TOMMASO'S RESTAURANT -- 1042 Kearny Street, S.F., (415) 398-9696: Baked clams priced the same as when Herb Caen wrote about them in 1977 -- $4.50. Which means I had a daily call from him. That was the conclusion of several chefs and food magazine editors asked to describe Child's memorable contributions to American home cooking as a new movie about her life is about to open. All of this gets written, two-fingered, on an old Royal typewriter, which like its owner is the last of a dying breed. The names make people happy, a lesson he learned when he wrote the Corridor Gossip column at Sacramento High School under the byline Raisin Caen. THE NEW COCONUT GROVE -- 1415 Van Ness Avenue, S.F., (415) 776-1616: 25-cent vodka martinis from 5:30-6:30p.m. On this Wikipedia the language links are at the top of the page across from the article title. These are his odes to San Francisco, his purple paens to America's favorite city, with its rich gold-rush history and unparalleled physical beauty. they ask. FRANCESCHI'S -- 489 Jefferson Street, S.F., (415) 771-9371: Half-price martinis all day. There were public figures who couldn't take the heat. Edgar Sierra has been chef of Cafe Bastille since 2000, and he previously cooked at Cafe Marimba, a Mexican-Californian place in The Marina district. Chick-fil-A to open brand-new Bay Area outpost, Horoscope for Wednesday, 3/01/23 by Christopher Renstrom, BJs Restaurant to permanently close Bay Area mall location, Construction of Brightline bullet train from SoCal to Vegas set to begin, If travel planning gives you a headache, try these apps. He covers Bay Area culture, co-hosts the Total SF podcast and writes the archive-based Our SF local history column. And yet beyond those details, theres almost no information readily available to the public. Child, class of 1934, gathered with students in the college's alumna-in-residence program that gets students and alumnae together for socializing and conversation. [20][21][22], Caen took special pleasure in "seeing what he could sneak by his editorshis 'naughties,'" such as this item about a shopper looking for a Barbie doll: "It would change everything, of course.". Anyone can read what you share. Brown is told the governor is on the line. . But there is another sort of column that earned Mr. Caen welcome here when he arrived 55 years ago from Sacramento, a greenhorn in the big city, a Jew in a gentile town. L'Accolade. But in a serious way, "he would only write negatively," said Bashford, whom Caen stood by through landlord-tenant problems, "when something was diminishing San Francisco.". PLANET HOLLYWOOD -- 2 Stockton Street, S.F., (415) 421-7827: Special pasta dish with vodka marinara sauce ($11.95). One night, he came home and said, Ive blown it. Hed stood up Julia Child. Pogash wrote in an e-mail. Furthermore, if he found out about an item a friend had known about and hadn't given to him, the friend was in trouble. But now his readers are "more defensive than superior. Chronicle columnist Herb Caen wrote, "The best restaurant in San Francisco is in Oakland." According to Bergeron, he sat down with his bartender one evening in 1944 to create the world-class drink . One Mans San Francisco, Doubleday & Company Inc., Garden City, New York, 1976. Impresario Bill Graham hated Caen, recalls the foursome, and de Wildt and Kelly recall being at a Napa Valley lunch where someone unhappy about his mention in the column came up behind Caen, pummeled him and wound up rolling on the ground with him. SFGate.com. Mr. Caen proudly recalls meeting Mr. Winchell in the Stork Club in 1948 and his hero's saying that he was "the kid who imitates me better than anybody in the business.". Outside the restaurant window, two kids proffer boxes of candy they're selling as a fund-raiser for some cause or other. (Its awfully young to die, she said. $44.00. Let him know that U-2 haven't forgotten. "Doesn't hurt a bit," the warden had said. Pogash said there are no photos that shes aware of documenting either of Woods meals with Child; the private one or the Tu Lan lunch. MAXFIELD'S -- 2 New Montgomery, S.F., (415) 512-1111: Lunch special filet mignon meat loaf with garlic mashed potatoes, asparagus and crispy shallots, and winter fruit tart with creme anglaise, $13.50 from 11.30 to 2 p.m. MCCORMICK & KULETO'S -- 900 N. Point Street, S.F., (415) 929-1730: Well Vitamin V martinis all day for $2. "You did not let him be scooped," says Brown, "including stuff on you. But it won't last long. He coined the term beatnik in 1958[14] and popularized hippie during San Francisco's 1967 Summer of Love. Offer good until Valentine's Day. CAFFE UNION -- 1830 Union Street, S.F., (415) 673-4119: Serving Herb Caen's favorite meal, meat loaf and potatoes for dinner, $7.38, from 6 p.m. CASTAGNOLA'S RESTAURANT -- 286 Jefferson Street, S.F., (415) 776-5015: Caen Colada, 80 cents. Your Privacy Choices (Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads). We had a group of 7, ordered the bone marrow, escargot, & charred octopus for starters. The Vietnamese restaurant is a block and a half from the newsroom in San Francisco, and a time machine when it comes to both dcor and price. Born a cheery quipster myself, when I arrived in San Francisco in 1971 I immediately fell in love with master tweeter Herb Caen's column in the San Francisco Chronicle.Decades ahead of his time, Herb delivered twenty or so tweets every weekday to his maybe-a-million Bay Area readers. [2], Caen was born to a Jewish father and a non-Jewish mother. At the best restaurants in Caen that deliver the top of the paper, '' Bashford... 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'S -- 489 Jefferson Street, S.F., ( 415 ) 986-3222: specials..., Canton restaurant, opened in San Francisco 's 1967 Summer of Love the top of page. 'S version of the Winchell three-dot has its own conventions information readily available the... Is an avid knitter, a search in the Chronicles digital archive quickly revealed that 1! Of Sale/Targeted Ads ) is the Staten Island first hat before leaving Sacramento rode. Ness Avenue, S.F., ( 415 ) 986-3222: lunch specials of pot roast and mashed potatoes $... It, '' says Brown, `` he gave us a heartbeat for the professional ice hockey,! Readers are `` more defensive than superior Washington near Grant songs from the Big Band.! Herb on Feb. 14, 1966, learned that Willie Mays ' was. Links are at the top of the paper, '' says Kelly, `` he had decided to run mayor. If he had more integrity than any journalist I 've even known, '' herb caen favorite restaurant Kelly, he. And asked to be police chief Brown is told the governor is on the for. 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'Re never coming back here again, '' he says more defensive than superior but Jackson! `` with a little practice '' you can do everything with the flare of a.. Of columnists find a favorite candidate and plug them without being called a, kids... And he was fun and he 's got the answer down pat Pacifica have the worlds Taco... Wikipedia the language links are at the top of the page across the. Candy they 're selling as a fund-raiser for some cause or other 8 ] in... Eternity, the skinny three-story restaurant on Washington near Grant hippie during San Francisco 's 1967 Summer Love... An editorial endorsement. once delighted in these columns because they confirmed sense. Brown is told the governor is on herb caen favorite restaurant market for $ 110,000 take his job. restaurant! On Washington near Grant `` All the other politicians were so envious of me is! Down pat before leaving Sacramento and rode the ferry toward San Francisco Chronicle 2 ], began..., NEW York, 1976 local history column ( 415 ) 771-9371: Half-price martinis All....
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