I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Pinterest. Do you know anything about her? I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Kind Regards Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Cheers. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? I note your enthusiasm for W&S. Wonderful site! Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Thanks very much. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. She is very kind and nice Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! I dont want any slim, modern stuff. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? Ask them and theyll show you the various options. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Looking forward to your thoughts. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. Another question Simon. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. A.) Congrats on the blog. I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Very happy with her. The result may be due to specifics in my case. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Very best. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). I have checked them out however note that: They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. sorry if its a silly question. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. I want to have a morning suit made. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. Thanks for advice. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. In my case, a long body and short legs! The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. I would second that cloth ref. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. Your website is an amazing read. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. It is another interesting approach. Or would it be too structured? Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. No, its a good question. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. I had a strict deadline though. 192 following. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! Looking forward to know your thoughts. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Just one point on pricing. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Here is a simple way to think about it. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. P.S. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Curious on the lapel width used here. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. Simon, (And which?). Explore. This is the process by which my suit was also made. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? Thanks!! In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? Thank you. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? This shouldnt really be surprising. 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